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Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Some Cultural Backround

I would like to start off with a basic overview of nalbinding as it is most commonly referred. Firstly it requires only one needle that is used to make non-continuous pieces or threads that are then attached through further loops to create larger pieces. Because the thread is pulled all the way through each loop, it does not unravel, this results in a row by row upward spiral. As a textile technique, nalbinding or the method of single needle knitting is not limited to Scandinavia but stretches as far as Israel, Egypt and Peru. Most often nalbinding is used to make mittens, socks, hats, milk strainers, bags, sweaters or shirts and even dresses depending on your level of ability...like in this picture on pinterest posted by one Alison Fuchs

 https://s-media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/originals/78/18/51/781851d1aeb881a778b0e5cf696d6ffb.jpg
https://s-media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/originals/78/18/51/781851d1aeb881a778b0e5cf696d6ffb.jpg

OR this, also by Alison Fuchs, which I totally want ....


https://s-media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/originals/73/87/93/73879312c5726bf27847a20d61db9816.jpg
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/123286108522988455/

As my research part is for the sociocultural aspects, I will start with what's most easily found in regards to Scandinavian nalbinding. Basically everyone 'knows' that women would have been the predominant group to deal with textiles and its relation but because of poor preservation, it's hard to tell fiction from hopeful fact in regards to the backround of nalbinding.
Now considering the fact that if you type nalbinding into Google today you can find thousands of results that showcase all the possibilities of nalbinding, it would be so easy to find out who did it, why, its importance in culture but then you would be quite mistaken. Even with the mountains of information available, you'd be hard pressed to find material associated with its cultural history.

Especially if you take into account folklore in parts of Scandinavia and the current interpretations of such stories. For example in Finland, that say fishermen and hunters had to have been very proficient in nalbinding because they had to make their own clothing and materials for their hunting or fishing trips. Supposedly because they would lose their good luck in hunting or fishing if they wore clothes nalbound by women, so you could assume that men, probably as boys would have been taught how to nalbind along with girls.

In Finland there is also 'record' of a small municipality, Joutseno, that had the custom of paying the church clerk in either money or with nalbound mittens as payment for a wedding. This would suggest that depending on the level of skill, items made using nalbinding would be considered quite precious. Along with this is the tradition of women, generally the bride, making nalbound mitten elaborately decorated for her husband to be, as well as other important guests of the wedding. The bride was also to arrive newly wed at her in-laws with a set number of proper nalbound clothes to demonstrate her skill in crafts and as a useful member of the family.

In general there is little evidence of nalbound clothes for sale very often in any parts, this I think is mostly due to the personal esteem associated with being able to make nice things for your family and your family only. With exceptions at times of festivals or to honor someone in particular with a well made gift. Now as speculation on my part, I think giving mittens and such as gifts would not only apply to making the items yourself in terms of labor but perhaps to the quality in concerns to the type of wool or fabric used, the level of decoration and perhaps even a cultural representation of what it meant to give someone something in a society of exchange and reciprocity.

Overall, as is often the case in regards to female realms of work, there is little or obscure evidence about women and nalbinding. Most of it is hearsay and speculation based on close culture cousins of the Scandinavians but with little supporting archaeological evidence as of yet. Or else it's not easily (if at all) found accessible in english, needless to say Google translate has recently become a dear friend... so on that note I shall get back to it.

Most of the information in this post has been found at http://www.en.neulakintaat.fi/17#Lahempana, with some further research of the sources used by her at the bottom of the page.

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